This sauce is so good, you won’t even need cheese. [Photographs: Vicky Wasik. Video: Serious Eats Video]
The key to this amazingly rich yet fresh-tasting sauce, made from perfect summertime tomatoes, is that it’s a blend of three different sauces. A homemade oven-baked tomato paste is deeply sweet and rich, a classic tomato sauce provides bulk and flavor, and finally, a splash of barely cooked tomato purée guarantees the bright, fresh, fruity taste of vine-ripened tomatoes. Served on pasta, it’s so flavorful you won’t even need cheese on top.
Why It Works
- Slowly cooking tomato purée in the oven transforms it into a deeply rich, caramelized paste that adds depth and sweetness to the sauce.
- A splash of barely cooked tomato purée delivers the fruity flavor of sun-warmed fresh tomatoes.
- Using a variety of tomatoes, mostly plums but also other types (including juicy ones, like beefsteaks, that are not typically added to sauce), guarantees a balanced and well-rounded overall flavor.
Ingredients
- 10 pounds (4.5kg) ripe plum tomatoes, preferably mixed varieties (such as Romas, Amish Pastes, and San Marzanos), cut into large chunks, plus 15 pounds (6.8kg) ripe mixed tomatoes, mostly plums with a small portion of other tomatoes (such as beefsteaks), cut into large chunks
- 3 tablespoons (45ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing
- 1 large yellow onion, minced (see note)
- 3 medium cloves garlic, minced (see note)
- 2 large sprigs fresh basil
- 1 small tomato plant cutting with about 5 leaves (optional)
- Kosher salt
Directions
- 1.
In a large stockpot, heat the 10 pounds plum tomatoes, covered, over high heat, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes dump their liquid. Bring to a boil in covered pot, stirring occasionally, and cook until tomatoes are softened, about 10 minutes.
- 2.
Preheat oven to 275°F (135°C) and grease several rimmed baking sheets and/or baking dishes with oil. Using a food mill or a stand mixer’s vegetable strainer attachment, pass cooked plum tomatoes and all their liquid into a large heatproof container. Discard skins and seeds.
- 3.
Pour plum tomato purée into rimmed baking sheets and/or baking dishes, being careful not to overfill them.
- 4.
Carefully transfer baking sheets and dishes to oven and bake, checking every 15 minutes and stirring once purée begins to thicken, until a thick, spreadable tomato paste forms, at least 2 hours.
- 5.
Meanwhile, fill the same large stockpot with remaining 15 pounds mixed tomatoes and cook, covered, over high heat, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes dump their liquid. Bring to a boil in covered pot, stirring occasionally, and cook until tomatoes are softened, about 10 minutes. (Work in batches if your pot can’t hold all 15 pounds at once.)
- 6.
Using food mill or stand mixer’s vegetable strainer attachment, pass cooked mixed tomatoes and all their liquid into a large heatproof container. Discard skins and seeds. Measure out 1 quart (900ml) mixed-tomato purée and set aside.
- 7.
Heat 3 tablespoons (45ml) olive oil in a large, wide saucepan over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and sweet, about 8 minutes. Add remaining mixed-tomato purée and simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced to a sauce-like consistency, 35 to 40 minutes.
- 8.
Remove from heat; stir in basil and tomato-plant cutting, if using; and let steep for 5 minutes. Discard basil and tomato-plant cutting. Stir in oven-dried tomato paste and reserved tomato purée and season with salt. Use as desired or freeze.
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